De-Cluttering

[mitch]

We all get into a bit of a pickle around the Home. I admit i'm not perfect. But i try and kep on top of things. It all depends how long i've got and how urgent it is.

All these tips should take no longer than 30 minutes to complete. I'm sure even the busiest person has half hour to spare somewhere. ;)

Kitchen Cabinets.

You'll begin with your cabinets. Reorganizing these will probably mean moving some things to other zones of the kitchen. Working on one cabinet at a time, pull everything out and give the shelves a quick cleaning. Now assess what you've pulled out of the cabinet. Is it food, equipment, or supplies that will be used near where the cabinet is located? If not, they should go somewhere else. Does the cabinet have a lot of extra room that is not being used efficiently? If so, the highest shelves might be best for rarely used items such as special-occasion platters. Was everything crammed into the cabinet? In this case, you'll need to find new places for much of what was there.
Take this opportunity to start shedding. Throw away open boxes of food staples that are more than 6 months old. Donate canned goods you've had for more than 9 months, because you'll probably never use them if you haven't already. (Or include the cans in your emergency preparedness kit, kept in a basement, garage, or large closet.) Discard or donate orphan glassware, dishes, or flatware whose mates have disappeared or been broken. If you still have the cartoon jelly-jar juice glasses from when your high-school-age children were toddlers, it's time to get rid of those as well — unless they're collectibles. Get rid of equipment and appliances you never use. (Remember the large electric juicer that was going to change your life and then found a permanent home behind the wine glasses? Ditch it.)
As you begin putting things back into the cupboard, group similar items together: cereals with grains, canned goods with other canned goods, and glassware with dishware. This will make finding everything much easier. Get in the habit of placing all food labels facing front and lining up glassware and dishes in neat rows and stacks. The goal is to make everything in your cabinets easy to see and reach, and to make it clear where things go when the dishwasher gets emptied or bags of groceries are being put away. There should be room around glasses and appliances so you can easily remove them without having to move other items out of the way.
Larger items such as mixing bowls, waffle irons, and baking trays generally go in undercounter cabinets. But if those cabinets are crowded, consider hanging pots, pans, and any other equipment with handles or loops. Or put them in the often-underutilized space above the cabinets. Consider the following unique solutions for the different types of items you plan to store in your cabinets.

Canned goods: Make preparing meals easier by organizing canned goods by type (for example, fruit with fruit). The trick to keeping cans organized is maintaining visibility. If you place cans of the same size one in front of the other, you can never be sure what you have — or don't have — making shopping that much more difficult. There are a number of ways to ensure that you can clearly see which canned goods are where:

Tiered shelf platforms, available in wire or solid plastic, are ideal for keeping cans and jars in plain view. Many versions are available, including those that expand, slide out, and have hideaway trays.

Helper shelves are basic wire shelves with legs. They essentially double your cabinet shelf space because you can slide cans under the shelf and place others on top of it. Some types have adjustable legs for more storage flexibility.

Turntables or lazy Susans keep groups of items in one easily accessible place within a cupboard. For instance, place tomato sauce, paste, and canned diced tomatoes on a single shelf. Or use a two-tier lazy Susan for baby food, with vegetables and main courses on top, and fruits on the bottom.

Spices: There's no reason for a jumble of spice bottles or jars to clutter your cabinet space, especially when there are so many spice-storage options available. Put spice jars in a tiered wire or wood spice platform that lets you store them with the labels out. "Pull-down" versions can make it easier to reach the spices. A spice carousel is another option. Sometimes making sure that spices are as close as possible to the cooking area means getting them out of the cabinet; see other spice storage options in hanging storage, drawers or pantries. Regardless of where you put them, spices should be kept out of direct light and away from heat sources.

Dry goods: Boxed dry goods should be stored by type. Group breakfast cereals together, rice and beans together, and staples such as flour and sugar together. Bags of staples like dried beans, rice, and sugar are odd shapes for shelf storage. It's more space-efficient to store these in labeled see-through plastic bins or storage containers.

Dishware and glasses: Store dishware and glasses on an accessible shelf in a cupboard as close to where you'll be eating as possible. Store glasses in a row, so it's clear where they belong, and leave room around all your tableware so nothing gets broken when moving pieces in and out of the cabinet. Dishes are usually stacked, but a wire dish rack can improve access.

Pots and pans: Cookware is usually kept in undercounter cabinets, where the pieces won't hurt anyone if they fall. But keeping them orderly is a challenge. The first line of defense against pot and pan clutter is nesting: Whenever possible, store one pot inside a larger one to reduce the amount of space they take up. Of course, you'll need to get to your cookware on an almost daily basis, so you may want to invest in a slide-out cabinet tray. When you're dealing with pots and pans, you also have the challenge of storing their lids. A simple tray or bin can serve the purpose of collecting pot lids in one place, but for roughly the same cost, you can buy a wire pot lid rack that will keep them in a neat row.

[mitch]

Under The Kitchen Sink.

The cabinet space under the sink often becomes a wasteland of half-filled bottles of household cleaners, loose garbage bags, and other clutter. Its odd dimensions and the presence of pipes can make this area seem nearly unusable. But the space can actually be outfitted to provide a range of storage; it's just a matter of choosing the right organizer for your needs.
To make the space as efficient as possible, create groupings under the sink. For instance, keep all household cleansers in one container, such as a bucket or carryall. That way, all the cleansers will move together, making it easy to find and use whichever you need. The same is true of poisonous household aids. (Be sure to use a childproof cabinet lock in a kitchen where children are present.)


Pullout stacking basket systems: You can really take advantage of available space with a pullout system of tiered baskets. Easy to get at, they can be used to store most anything you would want to put under the sink.

Undersink stretchable shelves: Designed specifically to expand to the dimensions of undersink space, the best of these can be adjusted for both width and height. They provide fairly sturdy support for bottled cleansers, detergent, and other bulky items.

Slide-out or pullout towel bars: Simple chrome rods on runners or hinges are a great way to hide towels from view most of the time, while keeping them accessible for drying dishes or cleaning counters.

Cabinet-door-mounted racks and trays: These put storage in a handy place — on the inside of undersink cabinet doors. Although they can be used on all cabinet doors, these types of organizers are more appropriate under the sink. The depth of the space and lack of shelving ensure the door can close, even with the storage unit in place. The units range from small wire or acrylic bins that can be used to hold sponges or dishrags to more complex, multicompartment tray systems that can store extra bottles of dish soap, scrub brushes, and more.

Tray dividers: Undersink partitions are a great use of the space for cooks with few cabinets who do a lot of baking and use cookie sheets, griddles, muffin pans, and other long, flat bakeware. The dividers can be stationary, positioned to cordon off the number of pieces you're storing, or you can purchase a higher-end unit with adjustable dividers fixed to a platform that slides out.

Pullout garbage and recycling pails: Some of the most useful undersink additions you can buy are dual bins mounted on smooth-action runners. They almost make taking out the trash or recycling a pleasure.

[mitch]

Hanging Storage.

Much of what clutters cabinets and drawers can be hung from the ceiling or wall. Both ceiling- and wall-mounted racks come as a simple rack, or a rack-and-shelf combination. Wall-mounted units allow more flexibility to accommodate your height and reach.
When considering hanging cookware or other kitchen necessities, look for unused wall space or areas of the ceiling over work spaces. Measure carefully and don't hang storage where it will impede work flow or get in the way of cabinet or refrigerator door swing. Ideally, anything hung in the kitchen should be in arm's reach of the shortest person who will be cooking there.


Rail systems: Pick a hanging rail bar and then select a variety of accessories to create your own customized system. The bars are sold in different lengths, so you can make a system to fit available space. Accessories include:

Bottle caddy (usually with two slots, ideal for oil and vinegar cruets or open bottles of red or white wine)
Utensil hooks
Book holder (to keep a cookbook open at eye level during food prep)
Dish racks (can be used to store dishes or just to dry them if you don't have a dishwasher)
Paper-towel holder
Shelf (available as a single or double shelf)
Corner shelf (bridges two rails on perpendicular walls)
Hanging knife block
Cutlery holders (usually in the shape of stainless steel cups with mesh bottoms)
Stemware racks
Pot racks: Hang pots, pans, oven mitts, towels, and more from these handy and fashionable units. Available in an array of sizes, shapes, and materials, pot racks can supply much-needed storage, freeing up a lot of cabinet space. They also look great and let you position pots and pans near where you will use them.

Hooks: Ordinary hooks can be as useful in the kitchen as they are in other rooms. Hooks are good choices for places where hanging bars and racks won't fit, or where you need to hang only one or two items, such as a dish towel, oven mitt, or a string of garlic or peppers. Hooks can also keep backpacks and jackets from collecting on the kitchen table. Specialized mug hooks for undercabinet storage can provide easy access to these often-used items.

Hanging baskets: Easily some of the most adaptable and useful hanging storage units, hanging baskets can hold many things, taking up relatively little vertical space. Placed near a food prep area, a three-tiered basket provides a place to keep fruits and root vegetables that should not be refrigerated. By the kitchen table, a single hanging basket can hold colorful napkins and place mats.

Hanging glass racks: Stemware racks vary in size, from small wall-mounted units that will support eight to twelve glasses to overhead units that can hold more than twenty. You can also buy a unit with a wine-rack shelf above the glass storage, though wine is best stored in a cool, dry place.

[mitch]

Drawers.

Few things are as frustrating as frantically searching through an overcrowded drawer for something you know is in there somewhere. That's why the hard-and-fast rule of the organized kitchen is: no "junk" drawers. Keeping your kitchen drawers organized is simple but essential to making the kitchen as efficient as possible.
The key to keeping drawers neat and tidy is to limit them to storage by type. If you are using a drawer for phone-station storage, don't keep wine openers and serving spoons with the notepad, pencils, and takeout menus there. Keep flatware drawers free of the large utensils that belong in a dedicated drawer or should be hung up. By segregating drawer storage this way, it becomes clear to anyone in the kitchen where items go. This makes it more likely that every item will be put back where it belongs after use.
Although some islands and undercounter cabinet sets feature deep drawers suitable for appliances or larger equipment such as mixing bowls, most of your kitchen drawers are shallow. This makes them appropriate for storing flat items such as linens, napkins, flatware, and cutlery. But you can adapt your drawers for many other types of storage with a little help from a drawer organizer.


Spice inserts: These one-piece units have slots that hold the spice jars at an angle, making it easy to see and grab the spice you need.

Flatware caddies: They're still the best way to keep your everyday knives, forks, and spoons in order. Choose from wire, plastic, or fancier wood types. Just make sure you get a caddy that will hold all your flatware and still fit neatly within the dimensions of your drawer.

Expandable cutlery organizers: Flexibility is the key selling point of these units. They are used for the same purpose as flatware caddies, but expand to the size of the drawer and provide more varied storage slots. This gives you spaces for steak knives, other cutlery, and utensils such as can openers, in addition to the space you need for your day-to-day flatware.

Knife racks: If you don't want to hang knives and don't have counter space for a knife block, keep knives sharp and in order with a knife-tray drawer insert. These keep the knife blades from rubbing against other surfaces and going dull.

Expandable compartment organizers: For more general drawer storage, turn to these cousins of expandable flatware organizers. Adjustable in length and width, they come with odd-sized compartments to store everything from wine openers to twist ties to straws.

Interlocking organizers: Individual clear or white plastic compartments can be assembled in any number of combinations to create a custom storage drawer. Mix and match the compartments to accommodate changing storage needs.

Rolling tray inserts: An unusual drawer option, these essentially provide two levels of storage for deep drawers. So, for instance, you could put accessories such as straws, birthday candles, and balloons on the bottom, and themed party utensils in the rolling tray.

Kitchenware organizers: If finding a good place to store your dishes is a problem, a kitchenware organizer may be the answer. You'll need a large, sturdy, deep drawer. The organizer features a baseplate with holes, and pegs that can be moved to accommodate different-sized plates.

[savepaws]

Our main problem is that we just don't have cabinet space. Our cupboards are jammed packed (only stuff I need & use regularly) and I still have so much cr@p sitting out on the counters. It doesn't help that the babies now need a shelf for their food too and that we constantly have bottles, bottle parts, sippy cups, etc. sitting on the counter drying. I hate clutter so much though, I try so hard to get rid of it but this house is so small, I have no where to put anything.

[mitch]

Kitchen Countertops, Work Surfaces & Shelves.

Flat, open surfaces provide the opportunity for "display" storage. So much of what is stored in the kitchen is attractive, and shelves and countertops give you a chance to use storage containers that double as decorative pieces. This lets you use your countertop to accent your decor while freeing up storage elsewhere.
Items stored on countertops and work surfaces should be confined in functional "stations." This will leave long stretches clear to serve as work surfaces whenever you need them.

Phone station: The ideal phone setup for the kitchen is a wall-mounted phone over accessible counter space. The phone station should include a "frequently called" number list with emergency numbers, a notepad of some sort, takeout menus, and a pen. If the station is next to the refrigerator, use a magnetic notepad with the pen on a cord, and use a magnetic pocket to keep menus and other papers organized. If the refrigerator isn't close, use a tray next to the phone, and keep notepad and papers confined in the tray.

Work station for cooking: Clustering basic implements and ingredients you regularly use in cooking can make meal preparation quicker. Self-contained units do the trick here. Keep often-used utensils on a lazy Susan, with compartments for cooking oil, salt and pepper, and basic condiments. Position commonly used staples such as garlic and onions next to the food-prep work station. Be sure to leave plenty of surface area for chopping, cutting, and other types of recipe preparation.

Food stations: The traditional practice of grouping certain staples in containers is as effective today as it was years ago. For instance, a countertop group of airtight canisters holding sugar, flour, coffee, and tea keeps these frequently used consumables centralized and accessible. You can create container groups of dried beans, grains and cereals, oils and vinegars.

Small-appliance station: Unless you use a small appliance almost daily, find a place to store it off the countertop or work surface. Essential appliances such as coffeemakers and toaster ovens will need to be positioned where there is a plug. Whenever possible, buy models that mount under upper cabinets, which makes it easier to keep the counter clean and organized.

TV station: If you like to have a TV in your kitchen, find a corner to tuck it in where the set will take up as little space as possible. Better still, opt for a small, fold-down undercabinet model that can be kept out of the way when it is not being used.

Shelves are versatile and useful flat-surface storage and they are available in all shapes and sizes. Buy shelving according to your needs and available wall space. Although chrome wire shelving is popular in today's kitchen, consider wood, solid metal, or plastic shelves if you need storage for tall, thin containers such as elegant oil cruets. These types of containers will be unstable on wire shelves.

Stand-alone shelves: An independent unit can be a quick fix for lack of storage just about anywhere in a kitchen. Tall, thin shelving units can fit in the awkward wall space between two doors, or between a door and a window. The stability of short, wide units will be handy if you need to store heavy items such as mixers, blenders, and other large appliances. It's wise to anchor taller units to the wall with a screw-in brace.

Wall-mounted shelves: These provide adaptable options, and are best used for "overflow" storage. For instance, if you have too many canned goods for available cabinet and pantry space, install a shelf near the pantry for extra storage. Use shelves for more immediate needs; in the case of canned goods, use the shelf rather than the pantry for foods likely to be consumed most quickly. Simple, solid shelves are also a good place to put cookbooks and other kitchen reference materials.

[mitch]

Refrigerator & Freezer.

Keeping your refrigerator organized is one of the bigger challenges in the kitchen. Everyone in the house uses the refrigerator, and the contents change day by day. You can maintain order by being diligent about where things are put, and by establishing a logical organization within the refrigerator. (Be sure to tell your family your organization principles so they'll abide by them.)
The first order of business is weeding out obviously spoiled foods and leftovers. Then throw out any open jars, bottles, or cans that are more than 6 months old and ones that you haven't used in recent memory. You'll need to do the same weeding out of the freezer. Keep in mind that food in the freezer doesn't stop aging, it just ages very slowly. If you have food in the freezer that is more than 9 months old, throw it out. Now give the whole unit a thorough cleaning and you're ready to put everything back according to assigned locations.


Packaged food: Grouping food in distinct areas can be tough because the refrigerator layout is usually pretty open. Use transparent covered bins for bags of food, such as shredded cheese, open packages of premium coffee, and other loose foods. Keep bottled condiments together in the door slot. Other packaged foods, such as coffee beans or ground coffee, should be kept together in trays, which contain spills and make it obvious what goes where.

Beverages: Soda bottles have a tendency to tip on wire shelves, so if your refrigerator has wire shelves, buy a piece of Plexiglas at the local hardware store (have it cut to size) to serve as a platform for the soda bottles and other tall, unsteady containers. Canned beverages such as beer and soda should be organized in a wire can-dispenser. Inexpensive and simple in design, these dispensers — for those who drink a lot of canned beverages — hold twelve or more cans, take up a minimum of space, and use a gravity feed system to neatly dispense one can at a time. If you're a fan of sports drinks and buy several bottles at once, refrigerate only one at a time-keep the rest in another location, such as the pantry.

Leftovers: You should also have a distinct area for leftovers, so you and your family know where to find them. Of course, if you're running low on room and the leftovers may spoil before use, it's wiser to freeze them.

[mitch]

Pantry.

A pantry is your kitchen's warehouse. Simple in design and principle, a pantry is a self-contained area for open storage. The space lets you stock up on staples and provides a dedicated location for backups of common household items, from extra boxes of coffee filters to a supply of paper towels. If you're fortunate enough to have a built-in pantry as part of your home, the challenge is to make sure it's well organized. But even if a pantry isn't part of your home's layout, you can usually create a pantry space in your kitchen. To prevent clutter and waste, there should be a logic to what you put in the pantry and where you locate it.


Dry goods: Airtight bags of flour, sugar, rice, tea, and other dry foods in bulk are well suited for storage in the pantry. As a space-saving alternative, use containers that fit your shelves perfectly.

Paper goods: Take advantage of pantry space to buy paper goods in bulk. Even though backup items generally go on bottom shelves, position paper goods close to the top of the pantry so they can't be damaged by errant spills.

Beverages: Most beverages can be stored in a cool, dry pantry space for a significant period of time. This frees up refrigerator space and lets you buy beer and soda at case prices. Keep the beverages in their cases for most efficient storage.

Cookbooks: Because the pantry is usually set apart from the messy part of the kitchen, it can be a perfect place to store cookbooks. If you don't have a pantry, keep the most frequently used cookbooks handy in the kitchen and move the rest to bookshelves elsewhere in the house.

There are many ways to fabricate a pantry, from putting adjustable shelves or a freestanding shelving unit within the closet, to buying one of the many prefab pantry systems. Whether you make your own or buy a premade pantry system, look for flexibility, such as adjustable shelves. You should be able to change the configuration of the pantry based on changing storage needs.
A pullout, wire-grid storage system lets you convert a ceiling-height cabinet or a small broom closet into a new kitchen pantry. Individual shelves in these systems can be arranged to accommodate different-height items. You can also buy accessory grids designed to hold pot lids and other utensils. You can opt for pullout, solid trays that will hold many different containers firmly in place.

[mitch]

Kitchen Table.

Your kitchen table is usually the central gathering place in the kitchen. It tends to fill multiple roles, from a social center to a place for eating meals to a desk for reading. Because so much goes on around the kitchen table, clutter is a natural problem. You can beat clutter and the general disorganization of table space by "centerpiecing" whatever is stored on the table and by keeping the table prepared for meals.

Centerpiecing is simply creating a central area — on a mini lazy Susan or in some other type of small organizer such as a basket — where all the items that will be permanently kept on the table are collected and organized. Put the basics — salt, pepper, napkins — in the centerpiece, leaving a small amount of space for other condiments during mealtime. Use bowls around this centerpiece as necessary to keep fruit or other treats for the family on hand.
Keep the table covered with a simple tablecloth or lay out place mats, and you'll be able to keep the table free of homework and bills.

[mitch]

Bedrooms And Kids Rooms.

That's the Kitchen more or less done. Now onto Bedrooms. ;)

The territory around your bed — including the bed itself and your nightstands — is your comfort area. The storage in this zone, and the way things are organized, should be all about putting you at ease. If you're a reader, there should be a place to put books or magazines when not being read, and enough room for a good reading light. If you like to sleep with the scent of flowers around you, your nightstand surface should be large enough to hold a vase of flowers.
We tend to think of our furniture as permanent, but if your nightstands are too large or too small, they are part of the clutter problem and should be replaced. However, the problem may lie in what you are trying to keep in or on the nightstand. If there is no space on the surface, remove everything but what's essential to your use and enjoyment of the bed area.

Nightstands: Your needs should determine your nightstand, not the other way around. The right nightstand works well with your bed. The top surface should be easy to reach from the bed height. If your nightstand is too tall or too short, it will make basic tasks harder, such as setting your alarm or turning a reading light on or off. If the nightstand is too large it will invite clutter, and if it's too small, the basics you need won't fit comfortably on top. Ideally, the top of the nightstand should be large enough to hold a book, a light, and an alarm clock (and a vase and eyeglasses, if you require them). The nightstand should also have a drawer to conceal items that would detract from your bedroom decor, such as prescription medicines, the television remote, and a small flashlight. If you have a number of medications or other items you use while in bed, consider a nightstand with multiple drawers. A shelf underneath is useful for holding magazines and books to be read. If an item is not used while you are in bed, it doesn't belong anywhere on or in the nightstand.

The bed: All beds — with the exception of completely solid platform beds — provide the opportunity for valuable long-term storage. The space under a bed is expansive and there are a number of ways to put it to good use. First, determine what type of long-term storage you need: Bulky items like comforters need a taller container than flat, compact items such as sheets. Measure how much clearance you have between the bottom of your bed and the floor, then choose a type of underbed storage that suits the space and the degree of accessibility you require. For instance, backup pillows and sheets that you use every few weeks might best be stored in a container with wheels, to make getting to them easier. Depending on which type of underbed storage you choose, you may want to use a bed skirt to conceal the container.

Base drawers are prefab units that slide independently under the bed or create a foundation for the box spring or mattress. They are usually attached around the existing frame. Most often made of wood, these units create the appearance that your bed is sitting on a platform with drawers. The drawers provide a neat, finished look that stylishly conceals what you're storing. The downside to underbed drawer sets is their expense and the fact that the frame construction takes up some of the usable underbed storage space.

Simple underbed boxes are inexpensive storage options. These come in a range of shapes and materials, including durable plastic boxes that let you see the contents, wire-mesh units that allow air to circulate around whatever you're storing, and simple canvas "bags" that zip up around a metal or wood frame, completely enclosing and hiding the contents.

[mitch]

Dressers.

The dresser provides two types of storage: concealed places to hide underwear, socks, and other clothing and valuables, and an open, accessible top surface for a jewelry box, family pictures, or other visually attractive elements. The challenge is to make certain that the dresser does not become the parking place for the random clutter that seems to migrate to the bedroom, such as mail or car keys.

Begin by removing everything in and on top of the dresser. Use this opportunity to weed out frayed bras and underwear that you no longer wear, socks and handkerchiefs with holes in them, and other garments that are no longer usable. Also get rid of small bits and pieces that you might have been holding onto for no good reason, such as orphaned cuff links. Move items that don't belong in the dresser, such as playing cards, sunglasses, or family pictures waiting to be framed.

What's left will be a combination of clothing and possibly items of value that have no other logical place to go. That's okay. The dresser should serve as a central storage area for undergarments, and can also house valuables that you want to keep but won't necessarily be using or even looking at on a regular basis. These can include mementos such as medals and awards, seldom-used jewelry such as tie tacks and cuff links, extra shoelaces, and other similar items. The trick to permanent dresser organization is to give everything that goes in or on the dresser a set place, even if you have to create one with special dividers or independent compartments such as boxes. Then put back all the clothing you'll store in the drawers, which will reveal how much extra storage space you have.


Drawers: As with the closet, all the clothes you keep in the dresser should be neatly grouped by type. With some of your clothing, this is easy: It's a simple matter to fold men's underwear and place it in rows. Women's undergarments are a little more of an organizational challenge, and should be kept to one section of the drawer using a divider, a box, or a see-through bag. If much of what you want to store is loose goods, turn to drawer inserts. Specialized inserts are available for everything from earrings and necklaces to rolled ties and folded handkerchiefs. You can also mix and match independent plastic or wood compartments. Some plastic compartments snap together, letting you customize your drawer design.

Dresser top: There are certain items best suited for the top of the dresser. Cosmetics may be essential if you do your makeup in a mirror over the dresser. An heirloom jewelry box is lovely displayed on the dresser, and provides a place for your accessories. Whatever is on top of the dresser should be self-contained. Jewelry should be kept in a jewelry box. Cosmetics should be placed on a decorative tray or in a box or cosmetics bag to prevent them from migrating. Every dresser top should have some sort of valet and a change keeper. The valet can be as formal as a wood tray with separate compartments, or as informal as a woven basket. Whatever you choose as a valet, that's where all small "pocket" clutter should be placed: cell phone, keys, money clip, wallet, and anything else you regularly carry. The change keeper is the place to put all your loose change when you empty your purse or pockets. This can be a decorative bowl, a vintage bank, or even a wide-mouthed bottle. The point is to create a set place for all the loose items that might otherwise clutter the top of the dresser. (If you have small children, be sure that your dresser has safety straps to secure the dresser frame to a wall stud, along with safety catches on the drawers.)

[mitch]

Suspended Storage.

Suspended storage is all about "hiding in plain view." Because so much of what you need to store or organize in the bedroom is pleasing to the eye, using hooks and shelves can be your chance to organize and decorate at the same time. When you use shelves and hooks you free up room elsewhere in the bedroom, and make whatever you store easier to find.
Make the most of the display nature of this type of storage. Store pretty, loose items like scarves or gloves on shelves or hang them elegantly from a row of hooks. Roll ties up tightly and arrange them in a shallow tray on a shelf.

You can choose between complete stand-alone shelving units and single shelves that are attached directly to the wall. Hooks come in sets, alone, or in variations such as pegs. Always keep in mind that flexibility is key to how useful any storage — including shelving units — will be.


Stand-alone shelving: Independent shelving units offer a lot of storage space in one unit. They can also easily be moved when necessary, and are a good choice where you have significant wall space. As elsewhere in the bedroom, organize anything you put on a shelf by type (books in a group, boxed items in a group, and so on).

Attached shelves: Like their stand-alone relatives, single shelves and brackets are available in just about any finish you could want, from metal to wire to all kinds of wood and plastic. Although attractive because of their price, wire shelves tend to look inexpensive, and will let small objects pass through. A solid shelf is usually a better idea in the bedroom. Position the shelf near where what you're storing will be used. Multicolored folded clothing is ideal for attached shelving. Stacks of pretty sweaters create a dynamic focal point at eye level, and ensure that you'll never have to search through a jumble of clothes for your favorite sweater again. You can prevent loose articles from falling off the end of the shelf with a shelf-end stop. This device clamps to the end of the shelf and creates a border like a bookend.

Hooks: Useful and versatile, hooks serve as either permanent or temporary resting places for bedroom garments and accessories. Hook sets comprise a series of hooks attached to a backing, which is hung on a wall. These are useful when you're hanging a group of similar items, such as all your scarves, purses, or belts. Single hooks are simple solutions that can easily be installed right where you want them: on the back of the bedroom door for your bathrobe, on an interior closet wall to hold a favorite pair of suspenders, or next to the dresser to hang the necklaces you wear most often. Peg sets are helpful, too. For instance, if a collection of baseball caps seems to be forever getting in your way, install a row of pegs at the top of a wall, but within reach, to create a display of the hats.

[mitch]

Toy Storage.

Young kids love their toys. The presence of toys is one of the key elements that separates a child's bedroom from an adult's. Given the diversity of sizes and shapes, the amount of small, removable pieces, and frequency of use, it's no wonder that toys are the largest source of clutter in any young child's room.
The first step to getting toys in order is winnowing out broken toys, safety hazards, and those the child has outgrown. Try to do this with your child: you may be surprised what he or she no longer wants to keep.
The next step to organizing toys involves a lot more than just a bigger toy box. Infants, toddlers, and preteens present the biggest toy-management challenges.

Infants: If you have an infant, you're in control of the toys. But that can become quite a chore because so many people give toys as gifts. Don't be afraid to donate toys that never get played with or are stored in closets. Create a "favorites" bag for the small toys that your child likes the most. You can use a backpack or any other fabric bag with a loop or handle (even a mesh laundry bag will work). Fill the bag with the baby's favorite toys and then put it on the floor next to the crib when your child is in the crib. The bag can move wherever the child goes — to the playpen, changing table, stroller, and beyond. That way, you'll always have a place for your child's favorite toys. Because infants make a mess of things within their reach, keep extra stuffed animals, learning toys, and toys for later ages together by type on a high shelf or in a box with a latch.

Toddlers to preteens: Beyond the age of two, children's toy collections become increasingly diverse and extensive. Keeping the growing population of toys in line requires a variety of storage solutions.

Benches, boxes, and chests can provide ample storage to accommodate an assortment of toys. If you use a toy box, consider buying one without a lid or removing the lid from the one you have. That way the child sees exactly where the toys are supposed to go, and can literally throw them in there. It removes one step in the process — that of opening the lid — making it much easier to stay organized. It also removes the possibility of the lid closing on small fingers. If you keep the lid, look for boxes with finger cutouts and lid-control devices with safety hinges. Bench toy boxes serve two purposes: seating and storage. Find one with a slatted lid so it's easy to see the toys inside.

Bin consoles are great solutions for rooms with more than one child. These are essentially groups of stacked cubes with pullout baskets. The cubes can be self-standing or mounted on a wall — but it's always better to keep things low so small children can get to what they need without being tempted to climb. Toys in consoles can be segregated by type or by child. Some consoles come with simple transparent boxes that let the child see what's inside. Other units use wicker or wood baskets that can be labeled with words, a picture, or an icon (for example, twist-tying a small stuffed bunny to the front of a basket containing stuffed animals). Choose a stylish, well-made bin console and it will serve your child from the crib through college.

Shelves are ideal for board games, puzzles, and "collections" of toys. Dedicating a shelf to one type of toy ensures that your child is very clear about where that type of toy goes when not being used. For instance, devote a shelf to action figures so your grade-school child knows where the figures are, and can take pride in keeping the toys in good shape. Board games and puzzles should be placed on shelves that leave plenty of room for new games. If the games are usually played with the entire family, move them to where there is more available space, such as a shelf in the family room.

Teens: Once into their teens, most kids leave the stuffed animals and power figures behind, opting for more high-tech forms of entertainment. Your child's room needs to reflect that change. Chances are your son or daughter listens to music and may well have a handheld electronic video game console. These high-tech and expensive items need a safe place to stay when they are not in use, so that they don't get lost or broken. If your teen's room includes a stereo, keep portable music players and handheld game consoles in a padded tray or box near it. It's best if this container has a drawer or enough extra space for batteries and any other peripherals such as the cord that connects the music player to a computer. If the room doesn't have a stereo, keep the box or tray near where your teen listens to the music player — a homework area or a bed. Let your son or daughter pick out a CD rack to organize his or her music collection.

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Special Storage.

A few specialty products can help kids keep their lives organized with a minimum of fuss and effort on their part. The key is to make the process as fundamental and clear as possible.

A backpack hook seems an unlikely aid in a child's bedroom, but it can help keep your child focused on his or her studies (and keep the backpack clean and neat in the process). Attach a hook near the door to the room. Before the child can hang the backpack on the hook — where it's supposed to go — he or she has to empty the contents. This will prevent forgotten homework assignments that would otherwise be balled up at the bottom of the backpack. It also avoids the mess of a week-old, half-eaten sandwich or a rotten, squashed banana.

Hanging organizers are the best use of a closet rod — and they can be hung from the top of a door or the bottom of a wire shelf if you've removed the rod. These organizers are canvas columns of compartments that can be used to store a wide range of items, from clothes to shoes to stuffed toys. They are especially useful for helping kids keep clothing, school gear, and other important items straight. Label each compartment in the organizer with a day of the week. Small children can keep each day's clothes in the compartments so they're ready to go in the morning. Older kids can use the organizer to keep homework assignments straight, school projects in one place, and the right gear or musical instruments ready for the day they're needed.

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Medicine Cabinets.

Almost every bathroom has one, because a medicine cabinet is an amazingly useful feature. It's the ideal place to keep all those small everyday items used in the bathroom — from toothpaste to eye drops to prescription medicines (stored according to manufacturers' instructions) — well organized and out of view.

Because the storage is hidden and handy, a medicine cabinet tends to become the "junk drawer" of the bathroom. For whatever reason, we are often reluctant to remove anything from the medicine cabinet, allowing it to fill to capacity with empty cosmetic bottles, used, rolled-up toothpaste tubes, and useless, out-of-date medicines.

That's why the first step in any bathroom organization effort is to remove everything in the medicine cabinet and give the cabinet a good cleaning. Now look at what you've removed and throw away empty containers. Properly discard old medicines that are past their expiration dates. (Check with your local poison control center for their recommendations on how to discard expired medicines.) This includes both over-the-counter aids such as aspirin and indigestion remedies, and prescription medicines. Be aware that even herbal remedies and "natural" products such as melatonin carry expiration dates. Remember, too, that all medicine cabinets and drawers should be equipped with a safety locking device.

Now organize what's left by use. For instance, put everything having to do with dental care (floss, toothpaste, mouthwash) in one area of the medicine cabinet. In some cases, what you would normally want to put in the cabinet won't fit. An economy-size bottle of mouthwash may be too big to stand upright, so you'll need to store it elsewhere. Find a smaller bottle or glass flask with a tight-fitting top, fill it with the mouthwash, and keep it in the cabinet. If you have limited sink-top space and no nearby shelves, you may want to keep your brush in the cabinet as well.

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Showers & Baths.

Although the shower stall and bathtub have little existing storage space, it's easy to beat clutter in this area with just a few innovative organization aids. Since everyone in the house probably takes a shower or bath daily, putting soap and bathing supplies within easy reach will automatically reduce clutter and frustration.


Bathing and hair-care products: Organize these everyday essentials in a wire or plastic storage container; otherwise, they will just clutter up the edges of the tub or shower surround. Use one that can comfortably hold all the hair-care products you and others in your household use, along with a loofah, a washcloth, and any other personal care products you use in the shower (which may include shaving supplies for both men and women). Pick a smaller two- or three-shelf container if your needs are modest. You can select models that attach directly to the tile, either with special mounting hardware or with suction cups. Or, for a simpler option, turn to caddies with hooks that hang from the showerhead stem. Make sure you buy one with the features that match the way you shower. If you use bar soap, you'll need a unit with a soap dish. If many people use the shower, you'll probably be better served by wide corner baskets on a tension pole. The pole is secured between the ceiling and the tub lip, and usually comes with three or four triangular basket shelves. Some even include a suspended no-fog mirror for shaving in the shower. If you regularly use a washcloth, be sure any shelving units you buy have a hook, or buy a separate suction-cup hook.

Toys: Children's bath toys are essential to happy bath times, but if left unrestrained they can become slippery hazards underfoot, not to mention irksome floor clutter. It's a simple matter to keep them contained. Just pick an organizer that is large enough for all the toys (and then some) and one that can survive being waterlogged. The container can be a plastic bucket or bin, but needs to have holes in it so toys can drain after play. Keep it on a mat under the sink. Or, if you don't mind having the toys around at all times, keep them in a mesh shower-toy bag with suction-cup mounts. These range in style from simple net bags to elaborate cartoon-character organizers. The advantage of these types of toy holders is that you can rinse the toys off in the holder after play, and then just hang it up to dry on the wall. You can also buy hanging organizers that drape over the lip of the tub and can be hung elsewhere to dry out after bath time. These are great for holding toys, children's shampoo, and grooming aids such as brushes.

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Now onto Living Rooms & Family Rooms.

Entertaining Area.

Your entertaining area can bring movies or music to life, but you need a comfortable place to watch or listen. This space is defined by the couch, coffee table, and surrounding chairs. The area may be focused on the entertainment center, but during parties or informal get-togethers, it can become a relaxed conversation pit where people cluster and socialize. The couch itself is rarely a clutter problem. Just keep throw pillows to a minimum — use only those that make you more comfortable. Groups of decorative pillows can too easily become a hiding place for remotes and other small items.

The heart of the entertaining area is the coffee table. It's the natural location for beverages and food, and serves as a parking place for books and magazines. A coffee table is indispensable for keeping things off the floor, and useful for short-term or specialized storage. Given its role as a centerpiece, choosing the right coffee table is essential to keeping the room organized.

Coffee table: The first consideration in choosing a coffee table is style. You're probably not going to buy a coffee table that clashes with your other furnishings. But with a little investigation, you can find a piece that seamlessly integrates into your decor and still gives you the storage and organization space you need. The ideal coffee table provides enough surface space for beverages and food for the number of people who can fit in the entertaining area. It should also supply enough additional storage for everyday items such as magazines. In most cases, a shelf below the top is all the extra storage you'll need. But the coffee table can also provide drawers for items such as videotapes or the linens you use with a foldout sofa bed. If your needs are modest and you just want a place to put the remote and snacks, choose from traditional coffee tables. If your storage needs are more complicated, shop for nontraditional types.


Traditional coffee tables have fixed legs, a simple top, and a shelf or drawers underneath. Crafted of glass, wood, stone, or composite materials, these are meant only to provide a temporary resting place for food and drinks and basic items such as a television remote, a bowl of fruit, or magazines. The shelf or drawers add longer-term storage. A shelf is more accessible and more appropriate for visually attractive magazines or books. Drawers are better for organizing small items such as loose drink coasters or replacement batteries for remote controls. If you opt for drawers, remember to keep the drawers themselves organized with dividers or compartments; otherwise, their purpose is defeated.

Nontraditional coffee tables are increasingly in vogue. These can include cube-shaped boxes with lids, chests, or trunks, multitier units on casters, and other unusual versions. These are best matched to unusual storage needs. For instance, if you want to store seasonal throws near the couch for chilly nights, use a trunk coffee table with enough room for folded throws and maybe an extra pillow or two. Most types of unconventional coffee tables can function as mini closets to store board games, photo albums, or other items for which there is not enough shelf or closet space. One of the handiest types is an ottoman with a lid and hollow interior. When not being used with a chair, the ottoman can serve as a space-saving coffee table with significant storage under the lid.

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Reading Area.

Family rooms and living rooms are made richer with a specific space where someone can spend an afternoon reading in leisurely comfort. The couch can certainly serve this purpose, but in most living rooms that have the space, a reading chair with a good reading light and small side table create a more intimate and suitable space. Set another chair across from the reading chair and the area can also function as an inviting conversational nook for parties or a place for couples to discuss the day's events. The clutter-busting requirement for this area is that the table be minimal — just enough room for a beverage and a book.


Fireplace & Mantle.

A fireplace is a great luxury in the home, but the fireplace area — comprised of the fireplace and mantel — can be a casual resting place for a lot of what makes its way into living and family rooms. Where fireplaces are concerned, clutter invites clutter, so this is an area to keep as spartan as possible.


Fireplace: The fireplace itself is rarely an organization problem. If you have a gas fireplace, you don't even need to worry about cleaning ashes or storing firewood. If you have a wood-burning fireplace, the brick or stone footing around the base of the fireplace should only be used for the fireplace accessories and perhaps a decorative urn or sculpture. Fireplace tools should be kept organized with a stand or separate hangers. Keep wood tidy in a large, fireproof wood basket, tin bucket, or metal cradle. Keep on hand only the wood you need for a single fire; too much wood means extra mess.

Mantel: Although it's a tempting ledge for all kinds of small items, keep the mantel as clear as possible. Use it as a showcase for one or two of your favorite decorative (fireproof) pieces. Put a cherished ceramic bowl in the center of the mantel, or place candles in heirloom candleholders at either end. The mantel is also a place for items relating to the function of the fireplace, such as a decorative match holder or fire igniter. Keep the mantel spare and people are less likely to absently place their eyeglasses or the cordless phone there. The less there is on the mantel, the more items that don't belong will stick out.

Flat Surfaces.

The many small, flat surfaces in a home seem to attract clutter like no place else. These surfaces are inviting "temporary" resting places for all the little things we carry from room to room in the house, from keys to eyeglasses to unopened mail. There are two basic strategies for keeping these surfaces clear of clutter. The first is the "no-vacancy" rule. This means keeping the surfaces bare at all times — anything that doesn't belong should be immediately removed. Unfortunately, in busy households, this may be a tough rule to maintain. A more appropriate strategy for busy homes is to create a focal point. Use the flat surface as a showcase area, with one central display. For instance, use your most beautiful vase full of dried flowers as the center of attention atop an upright piano. Put your favorite decorative ceramic bowl in the center of a windowsill (as long as it doesn't interfere with the opening of the window). Cluster a trio of unusual glass paperweights on a radiator cover. By creating a focal point, anything else put on the surface sticks out like a sore thumb.

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Dining Rooms.

Table.

The dining room table is for eating, drinking, and socializing after meals. Homework and school projects should be confined to work areas in kids' rooms. Bill paying and work-at-home tasks should be done in the home-office area. Activities other than dining can scratch the table and often leave behind clutter. As noted in the box to the right, reinforce the singular purpose of this room by keeping the table set to one degree or another. The idea is to dissuade anyone from using the table for something other than dining.

The central storage issue concerning the dining-room table is what to do with the leaves and pads, if any (obviously not an issue if you have a glass dining-room table). A closet near the dining room — especially a closet that doesn't see much use — is the ideal location for removable table leaves. Wherever you put them, it should be someplace where they are unlikely to get scratched or to experience extremes of hot or cold, or to be exposed to water. If your dining room is spacious, consider keeping your extra table leaves in the table.

Sideboard.

The role of the sideboard is to hold food while serving, and to store vessels and utensils used in serving food. The ideal dining-room sideboard includes an uncluttered top surface and ample storage below in the form of shelves or cabinets. The top surface is a utility area, and the lower part of the sideboard holds the workhorses of memorable meals.

Upper Storage: The top surface of a sideboard provides a place to put large serving dishes from the kitchen that wouldn't otherwise fit on the dining-room table during meals. It can be very useful in this role, as a place for dish warmers to keep food warm or a place to put the remains of a course as you move to the next one. It's also a place to work with food, such as cutting a large sheet cake, that would be difficult on the dining table itself. In between meals, the top serves as a location for those special items you don't want to keep on the table, such as a candelabra and salt-and-pepper or cream-and-sugar sets. The common thread that all these items share is utility. If it isn't used for a meal, it doesn't belong on the sideboard.

Lower storage: The shelves or cabinets underneath the sideboard's top should be dedicated to oversized serving items. These include punch bowls; large, decorative serving trays; serving bowls; and special oversized pitchers. This can also be a great place to store linens, but don't place them touching other items or the wood shelf or they may become stained.

Additional Storage.

Depending on the size and capacity of your hutch and sideboard, you may need to find extra storage space for small seasonal items, replacement supplies, and other items that just don't fit in those zones. Because there is rarely enough room around a table — given the space needed to comfortably pull chairs in and out — more furniture is usually not the answer. Instead, turn to wall space for additional dining-room storage.

Shelves can provide attractive, much-needed storage positioned out of traffic flow. Use shelves to store decorative boxes containing supplies such as festive special-occasion napkin rings and backup candles, or as display storage for collections such as spoons or demitasse cups. Or use them to hold seasonal centerpieces or candle holders that don't fit on top of the sideboard. Special ledge shelves with a thin, routed channel are excellent for storing and displaying sets of three or four plates, or larger ceramic serving dishes.

Hanging plate racks are a way to store your special serving dishes or dessert plates while creating decorative interest on the wall. You can select from wrought-iron types that provide a frame for the plates, more discreet wire hangers that let the plate "float" on the wall, or simple wood types. Just make sure you hang the plates where they won't get bumped.

Wine racks are a natural addition to the dining room, placing the beverage where it will most likely be consumed. Because the vast majority of wines — especially moderately priced versions — are drinkable immediately and don't benefit from aging, you should only keep on hand the wine you'll use for one or two parties or dinners. Position your wine rack out of direct sunlight and away from any heat sources such as heating vents or high-intensity track lights. Always store bottles on their sides, so the cork stays moist, preventing oxygen from reaching the wine. The average temperature range in a home is not optimal for wine, but won't cause any noticeable deterioration over a period of a few months. If you're looking to store wine longer, consider the basement or use a wine refrigerator.

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Basements & Attics.

Hazardous Material Storage.

Hazardous materials include cleaning supplies that could be dangerous to small children and pets, flammable materials such as paint thinner, and pesticides. These should be kept in a locked cabinet, clearly marked with the contents. A metal cabinet is better than a wood unit because metal won't soak up spills and isn't flammable. Position the cabinet out of the general traffic flow in the basement. Clearly mark the cabinet so that any emergency personnel responding to a fire will quickly see what's in the cabinet

Basement Shelving.


The basement offers a place to put overflow from the garage or garden shed, and can accommodate odds and ends from the household as well. Shelves are excellent for storing seasonal items, such as plastic plant-pots and hoses, that would not fare well in the winter temperatures of a garage or shed. If space is limited in your garage — or if you don't have a garage-the basement can provide space to store supplies such as lawn fertilizer and plant food, and equipment such as sprinklers. Be aware that bagged materials such as potting soil and manure are prone to leaks. If you keep these materials in the basement, consider transferring them to 5 gallon plastic buckets (the type restaurants use). You can purchase these buckets, with lids, at home centers and nurseries. Hang hoses brought in for the winter from hooks affixed to joists.

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Attic Storage.

Attic storage is ideal for delicate — and not so delicate — holiday decorations. Once largely limited to Christmas ornaments and lights, decorations these days may include fake skeletons for Halloween, Thanksgiving centerpieces and candles, and even Fourth of July banners and yard decorations. Themed decorating has become a part of just about every major holiday. To make sure your decorations stay in good shape the rest of the year, dedicate a corner of the attic to them. If you use decorations for only one or two holidays, just stack them in a column of boxes. If you have a bigger collection of holiday decorations, use standing shelves to keep everything in one place. Don't store decorations loose. You can find a specialized box or container for just about any type of decoration. For instance, wreaths can be put away in protective storage bags or octagonal boxes custom made for wreaths.

Ornaments: You'll find an amazing diversity of options when it comes to storing Christmas ornaments. Specialized boxes abound, most with individual compartments for each ornament. You can select from padded cardboard boxes, fancy molded-plastic units, or even wood chests. Choose ornament boxes based on how much you're willing to spend and how precious your collection is — wood chests offer the most protection but cost the most. Plastic is durable and will absorb shocks when the box is moved around, but if there is little traffic in the attic, a cardboard ornament box may provide all the protection you need. The most important element in your choice is buying a container that will store the number of ornaments you have.

Decorative lights: Strings of festive lights have long been a part of the Christmas celebration, and tangled masses of light strings have been the aftermath of many a holiday season. Keep your strings of lights tidy with a spool light-string organizer. If you have several strings, such as outdoor sets and the sets you use on the tree, you can buy special plastic storage boxes with slots for each organizer and cavities for extra bulbs.

Important Documents: Extra room in the attic can serve as long-term storage for records and files that need to be kept for legal or tax reasons. Files should be kept in file-holder boxes, with built-in supports that keep the files upright and organized. Label the boxes and stack them neatly in the most out-of-the-way corner in the attic. Legal documents and important papers that you want to store in the attic should be kept in a fireproof or fire-resistant box or safe.

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Garages & Sheds.

Recycling.

It's often surprising how messy a few weeks' accumulation of newspapers and recycled containers can be. Uncontained, newspapers can drift around the garage; glass and cans for recycling can quickly overflow undersized containers.

Designate an area:

The trick is to designate a recycling area that includes containers with much greater capacity than you will normally need. Then, when you fail to recycle in a timely manner, you won't be stuck with a huge mound of clutter. The first step is to identify the recycling area in your garage. For most homes, the best area is right next to the door leading into the garage. The area needs to be large enough for newspaper, glass, and metal recycling containers.

Containers:

Next, you need to choose appropriate containers. Most municipalities require that you separate recyclables into paper products, glass and plastics, and metals. Think about how much of these materials you collect between recycling pickup days. Check what your town requires, then pick up appropriate containers that provide enough room for you to miss one recycling pickup. To make things easier, choose different colors of containers and label them in large letters (unless your municipality already requires that certain colors be used for different recyclables). If you're willing to spend the money, you can buy premade recycling centers, with bins that are contained in their own framework. The top-of-the-line structures have lids and include bins that tilt out. But you can certainly make do with separate bins as long as they are the right size. For a household with few people, you may need only shallow plastic tubs. For a family of four or more people, you may need small garbage cans.

Hand Tools.

Almost every homeowner has experienced the frustration of looking high and low for a particular hand tool needed to complete a home repair. Small but crucial, hand tools too easily slip into cracks and crevices, drop behind the worktable, or disappear mysteriously when they don't have their own clearly identified home. That's why organizing your hand tools is a huge step in making your life easier.

Hanging storage:

Decades ago, home handymen developed an amazingly simple and efficient system for keeping hand tools in order. They put up a sheet of "Peg Board" over the garage workbench, and hung tools off Peg Board hooks. To make things even easier, they traced around the tools, so they could quickly see if any tool was missing, what the tool was, and where it should be put back. This system still works wonders. Manufacturers have taken the idea one step further, creating custom perforated panels, with hanging pins specially made to support small tools, and special accessories such as hanging chisel trays and screwdriver racks. If you're willing to pay the extra expense, consider this modern version. Otherwise, the old, basic Peg Board storage still does the trick. You can also keep tools in special hanging cabinets attached to wall studs, which lets you lock them up. Tool companies offer full lines of cabinets suited to many different types of tools. Although expensive, these are great places to store valuable collections of hand tools.

Box storage:

Every home should have a basic tool kit, including a set of Phillips and standard screwdrivers, a hammer, a tape measure, and other simple hand tools. Although you can hang all these, home projects are made much easier with a small, portable toolbox. The toolboxes come equipped with sturdy handles, and are increasingly made of lightweight but strong plastic construction. Plastic versions are usually less expensive than metal types. Look for one with small utility drawers to hold a modest collection of screws, nails, and washers. A basic portable toolbox will be all most people need. But if your tool collection is more extensive, you need to consider a larger standing or rolling toolbox. Most of these are metal, and come with a variety of different depth drawers, attached cabinets, and open shelves. Choose the right type based on how many tools you need to store. An added advantage to standing or rolling tool chests is that the top can be an excellent work surface. Select a rolling toolbox for maximum flexibility in placement. The castors lock when the unit has to be stationary.

Power Tools.

Power tools represent a slightly different storage challenge than hand tools. They are bulkier and often come with a host of small accessory pieces that also must be organized. Older power tools were sold separate from accessories, with no containers for the tool itself. Today, most power tools come with carrying cases, and are often sold in complete sets with extra blades or bits contained in the same case as the power tool. Even if you have an older power tool, you can buy a carrying case to accommodate the tool and accessories. A great way to keep things organized. Store power tools adjacent to the hand tool zone, because power tools are often used in conjunction with hand tools. For safety and because they are expensive, you may want to store power tools in a closed and locked cabinet. Dedicate different shelves in the cabinet to different types of tools, such as cutting, drilling, shaping, and so on. If your power tool has a cord, use heavy-duty twist ties to keep the cord in a tidy loop. You can also opt to hang power tools that don't have their own cases. Buy a heavy-duty rack made specifically for this purpose, and hang the tools from their handles or body. Never hang a tool from its power cord; you can damage the cord and make the tool unsafe to use. If all your power tools are contained in their own cases, you can store them in a row on a sturdy, deep shelf. Position the shelf out of the reach of children.

Sports Gear.

Devote a portion of the garage or shed to all your sports equipment. This way, you can relieve storage burdens from other parts of the house and collect all the gear in one place. Everyone will always know where to find the sports equipment, and where to put it back. When setting up this zone, make sure it covers all your sports, from a ball and hoop for the occasional game of one-on-one basketball to golf clubs, bikes, and more. Although you could cobble together a storage area with baskets, shelves, and cabinets, it's much wiser to buy custom racks meant for storing exactly the equipment you have. Sporting goods manufacturers make storage devices for just about any type of equipment.

Bike-storage systems:

The most basic types are coated wall hooks that support the frame of the bike. More advanced systems include bike trees that can store the bike horizontally or vertically, depending on available space. If you have lots of overhead clearance, consider a bike pulley system — the bike is mounted on suspended supports and then hoisted overhead and out of the way.

Multisport organizers:

These are a great choice if your family tends to play many different ball sports, such as baseball, tennis, and basketball, or if you have a lot of small accessories to store, such as knee pads and helmets for skateboarding. The organizer usually combines a large bin for loose balls and other items, hanging slots and hooks for bats and racquets, a shelf or small hangers for gloves, caps, and helmets, and additional storage accessories such as small bins.

Car Care.

Decades ago when cars were mechanically simpler, you could save money by doing basic car repairs yourself. These days, most repairs relate to computerized functions within the car and are best left to professionals. But anyone who is willing to get his or her hands dirty can still save a little money by changing the oil, rotating tires, and performing other basic car maintenance. And most people like to keep their cars clean. The best way to keep car supplies organized is a sturdy set of shelves. Wire "restaurant shelving" can be most effective, but other shelf units can work as well, just as long as they are easily cleaned and have room for all your car supplies. To keep things simple, segregate supplies by function — keep extra oil and filters in one area, put all cleaning supplies on their own shelf, and so forth. Be sure to lock up these supplies to keep them away from curious children.

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Entryways, Mudrooms and Foyers.

Coats and jackets need to have a clear place to hang in the entryway so they don't clutter other rooms in the house. The two basic types of coats that need to be hung and organized are informal jackets that can be placed on hooks, and more upscale cold-weather garments that should be hung on hangers. When planning the coat storage you need, be sure to take into account the room you'll need for your family's outerwear and for visitors' coats. If you have the space, seasonal outerwear can be stored hung in the entryway. If the closet is too cramped, you'll need to store cold-weather garments during the spring and summer in the attic, or wherever you have extra closet space.

Coat closets:

The entryway closet should be dedicated to coats. Often, the closet will include a shelf. This should be used for other outerwear items, such as mittens and hats, as necessary. Equip entryway closets with a collection of sturdy hangers — wood or heavy-duty plastic are best; don't use metal hangers that will bend under the weight of clothes. The hangers should be able to support and maintain the bulky shape and weight of heavy winter coats, as well as lighter fall and spring wear. You can supply additional coat and sweater storage by attaching a rack with pegs or hooks to the back of the closet door. If small children are regulars in your entryway, make it easier for them to keep their coats organized by mounting a lower hanging bar in the closet. You can buy a short hanging bar to suspend from the regular closet rod by hooks and chains. Wherever you store the coats, try to create a section for each person so that everyone in the house can quickly find his or her jackets and accessories when heading out the door.

Freestanding options:

Many entryways don't have a closet, and even when they do, a freestanding piece of furniture can provide additional coat storage.

Coat racks are the simplest storage solution for entryways. Tall and thin, they fit well in confined spaces. Racks can hold several jackets and caps, although they can be unstable when burdened with heavy coats. They are best used as additions to closet space, or as the only coat storage in small households. The big advantage to a coat rack is its portability; it can be positioned in the handiest location, out of direct traffic flow. Some come equipped with umbrella stands integral to the base construction. Choose between metal or wood depending on which suits your entryway design best. If you have children, look for versions with midlevel hanging hooks in addition to the top "branches."

Hall trees are more complete storage solutions and better for busy households with many adults, children, and regular visitors. A hall tree is a single structure that includes a bench seat connected to a backboard, usually topped by a shelf, onto which hooks are fastened. Certain versions are made with a hanging rod that lets you suspend coats on hangers. Some come equipped with underbench shelves or cubbies, providing space off the floor for boots and shoes. Hall-tree benches are usually storage units themselves; the seat lifts up to reveal a chest space. This can be a handy location for scarves, mittens, umbrellas, and other inclement-weather gear.

Hooks and pegs give you the option of positioning hanging coat storage at eye level for the people in your household. Pegs are available in sets attached to a mounting base; buy individual hooks or hook sets as needed. Quick to install and inexpensive, these are especially handy for small children. Be sure to buy hooks meant for coats (they are longer and thicker). If this will be the primary way you store coats and jackets, be sure to install enough for both family members and visitors.

Footwear.

Ironically, shoes are second only to toys as annoying underfoot clutter. The process of keeping shoes organized begins with providing enough space for all the footwear in your entryway. Shoes need to be kept either on a mat or on a movable supporting rack so that the floor underneath can be cleaned regularly. In a formal foyer, you can use mats placed inside the closet under the coats. In a less formal entryway or where there's no closet, use attractive wooden or metal shoe racks to hold shoes and boots, or use a decorative wicker basket as an entryway accent and shoe organizer. Stackable shoe shelves are inexpensive and provide plenty of air circulation that will help wet shoes and boots to dry. No matter what you use to store shoes, it should be cleanable and able to catch dirt, salt, water, and so on. Keep shoes and boots in groups according to the person who wears them. If there is room, store boots in the entryway or foyer. If not, store them in the bedroom closet during the off season. Part of organizing the entryway should be removing the footwear that belongs somewhere else — basically any shoes or boots not specifically meant for inclement weather.

Mail & Keys.

Although you usually deal with both keys and mail in the entryway, keys seem to disappear when you need them, while bills seem to accumulate when you don't. Both problems are addressed with similar solutions — a specific place for them in the entryway.

Keys:

Keep your keys from getting lost by giving them a specific place where they go the minute you walk in the door. You can use any of a number of key hangers available in a diversity of styles. You can also go the less expensive route of just mounting a hook for the keys on a wall or other nearby surface. If you have multiple sets of keys — including backup sets of your house keys and keys to locked sheds, second or third cars, and relatives' houses — keep them all in the same place. You may be reluctant to put anything more on the walls, especially if a key hanger interferes with your decor. In that case, keep keys in a decorative bowl or similar shallow container on a table by the door.

Mail:

Ideally, you would bring your mail in and take it right to where it should go — bills to the home office, catalogs to the bedroom or the living room, junk mail to the recycling bin or garbage. But, in reality, few people want to deal with mail the first thing on entering their home. That's not a problem if you take a little time to set up a mail station in the entryway. If you have open wall space, mount wood or metal wall files like those used for magazines, or hang a decorative fabric pouch. If you have a table in your entryway, use trays or bins to keep mail tidy. Whatever storage solution you use, keep it out in the open so that you'll see when you have a backlog of mail and be more likely to deal with it.

Seasonal Storage.

Seasonal items are all those things that get used specifically for different times of the year. These include umbrellas, mittens and gloves, hats and scarves, and gardening clogs and kneepads. For busy households and large families, a multibin organizer can keep the entryway in order. Each member of the family gets a bin for his or her own caps, hats, mittens, and other foul-weather gear.

Umbrellas:

Umbrellas should be stored standing up. When laid on their side, the ribs can get damaged. The best umbrella stands allow for air circulation around the umbrellas so that they can dry effectively when brought in out of the rain. This doesn't mean you have to go in search of an actual umbrella stand. Wicker or wire-mesh trash baskets can function perfectly well as umbrella holders.

Scarves, mittens, and gloves:

Scarves are generally hung up to make them accessible and to air them out. But they can be folded and stored in bins or baskets in the closet or on shelves or in cubbies in the entryway. Mittens and gloves need to be kept with their mates, and should be kept in storage that allows for air to circulate around them. A shallow woven or mesh tray or basket is ideal. If many people are using the entryway, consider including several clothespins in mitten and glove storage, so that mates can be pinned together.

Gardening gear:

If you are an avid gardener and like to put your garden togs on as you go out the door, the mudroom is a logical place to keep your favorite gardening shirt, clogs, kneepads, and apron. Garden footwear should be kept on a simple shoe rack that is easy to clean. Other gardening apparel can be kept in a bin or attractive basket on a shelf or on the floor by the back door.

[mitch]

Desktop Organising.

The desk is the center of the home office. Many people adapt an existing extra table or desk to the purpose. But the important role the desk plays makes choosing the right one essential to beating clutter. First and foremost, your desk must be the right size for your needs. A desk that is too small makes it hard to work efficiently and keep the basic office tools at hand. But a desk that is too large becomes a wide, empty space inviting clutter. Remember, too, that permanently organizing your desk means setting up the desktop to facilitate work, not clutter, and optimizing underdesk storage when you can.

Desktop:

Your desktop should provide enough room for basic office tools and for space to comfortably write, to open your mail, and to review files as necessary. There should be enough room around everything to allow movement — so you don't bump your computer monitor while reaching for a pencil. In figuring out how big your desk needs to be, you should work with the other zones of the home office. For instance, you may prefer to use a desktop wire file-organizer for often-needed files. But if the home-office space will not accommodate a large desk, those files are better placed in the front of your file cabinet or in a drawer. In most home offices, the computer monitor, keyboard, and mouse form the central grouping of the desk, with other essentials positioned around this group. When setting up or reorganizing your desk, focus on the essentials. If you have extra room, it's okay to add a picture or two to your desktop arrangement. But don't go crazy with decorative paperweights or funny novelty statues.

Basic desktop implements such as pen and pencil holders, stapler, and tape dispenser should be grouped together. The best way to do this is to use an all-in-one organizer. These are available as stepped racks or as carousels. You can buy complete plastic or wood organizers with matching stapler, scissors, pencil sharpener, ruler, letter opener, staple remover, and tape dispenser.

In- and out-boxes are timeless organizing tools that no desk should be without. These can be wire, steel, plastic, or wood trays that are part of coordinated desk sets. You can also use decorative lacquered trays or other flat, shallow containers to suit your own tastes.

A mail organizer is also essential because the home office is the natural location for dealing with bills, direct-mail offers, catalogs, and other mail. Select from any number of slotted mail organizers to keep incoming and outgoing mail in order. Many of these can organize mail by date or subject, and some come with drawers underneath for envelopes, stamps, and other mail-related supplies.

Drawers and underdesk storage:

Traditional desks with drawers provide additional storage for things you would prefer to keep out of view. But the problem with drawers is precisely that everything is hidden. It's easy to put things there without thinking, and the drawers can quickly turn into clutter buckets. To make best use of your drawers and keep them as organized as possible, commit each drawer to one type of storage, and partition drawers as necessary to keep things neat. For instance, use your top drawer to hold pens in a plastic drawer organizer and to stack writing tablets and paper for the printer. Even when the desk does not have drawers, the underdesk area can still be used for storage and organization. Keyboard trays attached to the underside of the desk give you a place to put your keyboard while keeping desk space free. When you are not using the computer, the keyboard slips underneath, out of sight. You can use the space where a row of drawers would normally be for rolling storage, such as a rolling file cabinet or a low, rolling printer stand.

[mitch]

Home Office Equipment.

Today's home office is usually equipped with some measure of technology, even if it's just an old computer and hand-me-down printer. The cords, peripherals, and odds and ends that go along with even a modest home-office setup are a big organizational challenge. The good news is that new technological advances, such as wireless technology, can help you beat clutter.

Computers:

Making space for your computer is often the first step in setting up a home office. If you are one of the increasing number of people choosing to use a laptop as your personal computer, the space you'll need is modest — just a square foot or so of desktop space. If you have a more traditional desktop system, with a separate monitor, CPU (computer processing unit, which is the body of the computer), keyboard, and mouse (or if you use a separate monitor and keyboard to make working with your laptop easier), you need more room.
The CPU is one of two types: a contemporary vertical "tower" or the traditional horizontal "desktop" version. Towers can be placed on top of the desk, but taller ones tend to look awkward there and are often best stored under the desk. Make it easier to move the computer CPU for cleaning or dealing with cords by mounting the CPU on a CPU stand or a wheeled trolley. Or buy computer hangers that mount to the underside of the desk and hold the CPU up off the floor. Desktop-computer CPUs can often support a small monitor placed on top. If you think the monitor is too heavy, buy a monitor stand big enough to allow the CPU to slide underneath.

The monitor can be a big space hog on your desk. But it doesn't have to be. If it's time to update your equipment, consider buying a flat-panel monitor. These screens take up very little room and can provide the same or better graphics quality as large, boxy desktop versions. If you have a traditional monitor, make the most of desk space by placing it on a monitor stand so that the space underneath it is still usable.

Cords:

The various cords needed to connect different devices to each other and to a power source too often create an unsightly, dirt-collecting, disorderly mess. There are two basic options for keeping this particular clutter culprit in check: Keep all cords together, or do without them entirely. These strategies apply to all types of cords that transfer data to and between equipment, including DSL, cable, and USB cords.

Capture your cords with a cord organizer. There are two types: flexible
tubes that keep the cords concealed so you can run a bundle of cords wherever they need to go and rigid cord "channels" that also contain all your cords in one outer shell. Although less flexible, the channels are more easily attached to surfaces such as the underside of your desk or wall baseboards. Lengths of rigid channels are put together by combining sections of straight pieces and corner "elbows." Both flexible and rigid organizers are available in a wide selection of colors, finishes, and materials. You can also choose from simple, less-expensive plastic braces with clip-in slots for cables and wires. One is positioned about every foot to keep the cords and wires untangled and running parallel for their length.

Go wireless for a streamlined, more complete solution. Many of today's computers, peripherals, and input devices (keyboards and mice) offer wireless models and solutions. For building wireless home networks, Wi-Fi is the protocol. This technology lets you surf the Web, share files between computers, and even print — all without wires. For mice, keyboards, and printers, infrared or Bluetooth technology can be used to eliminate the wires between peripherals and the PC.

Digital cameras and music players:

Today's computers let you download music and upload images from digital cameras to your computer. New computers have special ports for cables that connect the music player or camera to the computer. When you are not downloading or uploading, store the camera and music player in an appropriate area away from the home office so that they don't clutter the desktop and risk getting broken. A digital camera can be stored in a box or in its own case along with your other photographic equipment or photos. If you tend to use the music player when you go out, keep it where you store your wallet and other valuables. Otherwise, store it in a drawer or other safe place.

Printer:

Although high-quality printers have gotten smaller over time, they still take up an inordinate amount of surface area. Sophisticated laser printers are self-contained but are generally large. More common ink-jet printers are smaller, but need space for the paper feed and the paper output, increasing their "footprint" on the desktop or shelf. You also need room to remove or insert paper and replace ink cartridges, further complicating printer placement. You can make efficient use of desktop space by placing a printer on a desktop printer stand. Available in clear acrylic, colored plastic, metal, or wood, printer stands range from simple platforms that create an empty storage space underneath to more complex workstations with multiple drawers, cord channels, shelves, and other features. Of course, if your home office has the floor space, you can place the printer on an independent printer stand, with room for reams of paper, supplies, and more. You can even buy a mobile workstation with room for other devices, such as a fax and a scanner. Just be aware that cords will limit how mobile the station can be.

Scanner:

Today's home computer stations often include a scanner that lets you scan and send photos to friends or scan art for party invitations, holiday greeting cards, personal newsletters, and more. Where you place your scanner depends on how often you use it, how much desk space you have, and the length of its cables. If you tend to use it only once a month, you might want to keep the scanner on a shelf, moving it to the desk when you use it. If you use it more often, find space for the scanner on your desk, or use a desktop printer stand so that you still have room beneath the scanner.

Telephone, answering machine, and fax:

Essential communication devices play a key role in the home office. Although you may not have a fax, chances are you have a phone and an answering machine. The answering machine is usually located with the phone (or as part of the base station of a cordless phone), so the two form a unit. If you work at home full-time, you should look into adding a voice-mail option to your phone services. This option lets you eliminate a physical answering machine and receive messages while you are on the phone.

Phones don't have to take up a lot of room in the home office. Most phones come with brackets that allow them to be mounted on the wall. You may prefer to use a cordless phone and keep the base station in another room, closer to an installed phone jack. If you use a headset when working in your home office, be sure that it has a place to go when you're not using it, such as a hook or a desktop cradle.

Traditional fax machines present the same organizational challenges that printers do. Not only do you need to make room for the fax machine itself, you also need room for paper supply and output. In addition, the fax machine will need to be connected to a phone line that has to be run from the nearest phone jack. That's why the best option is often a computer "on-board" fax system. You can buy computer software that will let you fax documents directly from your computer to an outside number, through your Internet service. The drawback of this technique is that you can't fax existing paper documents. But if you have a scanner, you can scan documents into the computer and then fax them.

Copiers and multipurpose units:

If you regularly use a copier in your home office, or have a multipurpose machine (one that includes a variety of functions, such as copying, faxing, and scanning), set up a dedicated station for it. The unit can sit atop a stationary cabinet or a cart with wheels, but the support structure should have enough room underneath for extra paper, replacement ink and cartridges, scanner bulbs, and other replacement supplies. The top surface of the cart or cabinet should have room for the copier or combination unit and a tray to hold copies that need to be made, faxes that have just come in, and other documents.

[mitch]

Laundry Room.

Storage:

Storage for laundry-room supplies need not be extensive because there is only so much you'll need to store. However, if you are looking to buy laundry supplies in bulk, consider a complete laundry-center unit. These bracket the washer and dryer with shelves and cabinets and can often supply the storage space you need for cleaning supplies, baskets to organize clothes for washing and folding, and more. In many cases, a more modest amount of storage will be sufficient. You can opt for cabinets or shelving — whichever suits the space and your preferences. Shelves are generally less expensive and easier to put up. Whichever type of storage you choose to use, the key is to position the storage above or close to the washer and dryer, where the supplies will be used.

Laundry supplies:

Whether you use cabinets or shelves, keep supplies separated by type, using organizers for groups of smaller items. For instance, keep bleach, fabric softener, and detergent together, stain and spot removers and stain pretreatments in their own tray, and so on. To make things even easier, keep your supplies in order of use near where you use them, with detergent, bleach, and fabric softener organized in that order near the washing machine, and dryer sheets kept near the dryer. Consider washer and dryer pedestals with storage drawers. Your washer or dryer is placed on the pedestal, which not only gives you storage space in the drawer, but also raises the height of the unit, reducing your need to bend to do laundry. However, if there are children in your home, dangerous supplies such as bleach must go on shelves or cabinets well out of their reach, or in locked cabinets next to the washer or dryer.

Laundry:

You won't always be able to wash dirty clothes the minute you bring them into the laundry room, so you'll need to make room near the washer for "incoming" loads. You may need more than one laundry basket if you have a large family or you want to presort. If you presort your clothes before washing, use hampers to make the process easier. Three simple canvas or mesh baskets on a shelf — for bright colors, darks, and whites — can help you keep dirty laundry organized for washing, keep the clothes off the floor, and make sure that dirty clothes never find their way into piles of clean laundry waiting to be folded. You can buy manufactured laundry-sorter units comprised of three mesh or fabric bags in a single chrome or wood frame.

Ironing Station.

Ironing is generally not a favorite task, but if you use the right board and ironing-station organizer, the chore will be easier and more pleasant, and the board will never get in the way of the other things you have to do in the laundry room. Your choice of ironing board will basically come down to using a mounted board or a freestanding unit.

Mounted ironing boards:

A major advantage to wall-mounted boards is the access underneath. They let you iron difficult pieces such as dresses and pants more easily, by permitting the clothes to slide further onto the board without being impeded by board legs. There are two types of mounted boards: recessed and surface mounted. Recessed boards are completely hidden and out of the way when stored, while surface-mounted boards just fold up against the mounting platform in plain view.

Recessed (or hidden) ironing boards

are a stylish option. The cabinet doors and interiors are available in many surface treatments such as oak or pine. The recessed cabinet can be built to include storage for the iron and ironing supplies. But recessed boards require substantial modification of an existing wall. If you don't want to undertake such an extensive renovation, or if the laundry room doesn't have traditional walls, consider a surface-mounted board.

Surface-mounted ironing boards

fold up and out of the way just as recessed boards do, but the surface-mounted version is more easily installed. The basic mounting plate and hinge unit can be attached to wall studs and masonry walls fairly simply. With this type of board, you'll need to create a separate place for the iron and ironing supplies. A shelf above the board unit is often the best solution.

Freestanding ironing boards:

These are the simplest and least expensive ironing boards. Most boards are adjustable for different heights, and you can select from different lengths. You can store your freestanding board on a hanging organizer that includes hooks for the board and a bin or shelf for the iron and supplies. This type of organizer is attached to the wall or hung from the side of a tall shelving unit or cabinet. If you don't have any wall space for your board, you can buy a board hanger that mounts on the back of a door or hangs from the top of the door.

Drying & Folding Area.

Folding clothes at a designated station in the laundry room is one way to diminish the possibility that clothes will become bedroom clutter. Unfolded clothes are too easily laid on a bed or chair to be folded later. It makes sense to include drying facilities in this zone because drying the clothes prepares them for folding or hanging.

Drying aids:

There are many types of structures to efficiently dry clothes in the space you have available.

Drying racks come in all shapes and sizes, in wood and metal. Many are expandable, and some include flat drying shelves as well as the traditional bars for drying. If you dry mostly loose items such as stockings, socks, and undergarments, a basic rack may do the trick. If you tend to dry delicate blouses or sweaters, you'll probably need a rack with drying shelves. On metal drying racks, the bars should be coated or stainless steel to avoid staining delicate fabrics.

A drying line can be an excellent option in laundry rooms that are cramped for floor space, but with plenty of overhead space. You can use a regular clothesline running between hooks attached to two facing walls, or use the more upscale option of a "hotel-style" retractable drying line.

Fold-out hanging bars are attached to a wall or the back of a door for hang-drying loose garments or storing newly pressed shirts and clothes on hangers. These can be folded out of the way when not in use.

Folding space:

Every laundry room benefits from a specific area for folding laundry. The task will go faster and your clean clothes will stay more organized when all the folding is done in one place. You don't necessarily need a lot of space, because you can only fold one garment at a time. A deep countertop is best, because it lets you completely lay out whatever you are folding. If your laundry room does not have a countertop, customize one. Create a folding surface out of a piece of plywood or sheet of hard plastic large enough to fit over the top surface of your dryer, or washer and dryer. Fold the clothes on top as you pull them out of the dryer. Or use a hinged countertop crafted from a piece of plywood and sturdy hinges attached to the wall. Keep hangers near the ironing board. Hang shirts and other permanent-press items on them as soon as they come out of the dryer so that you won't have to iron them. Use a wall- or door-mounted folding hanging rod or a hanging stand to keep shirts in order until you put them away.

Soaking Area.

Every laundry room should have a durable "slop sink" for soaking garments and hand-washing delicates such as sweaters. Hang a rag or paper-towel hanger within arm's reach of the sink so that you can clean up spills as soon as they occur. Keep a wire or plastic-mesh bin in the sink as a place to put garments to drain so you still have access to the sink.

[mitch]

And to prove how easy some of this is. In the time it's taken me to write it all up. I could have spring cleaned my ENTIRE three bedroomed house in the same amount of time. :rofl:

[Nekochanpurr]

Heh.. You should see my kitchen. No room for freaking ANYTHING. I have things like my crock pot and rice maker on top of the cabinets.. Like, the wall cabinets all hanging down. It looks so bad. XD**